It is a Kenmore Pro. My advice, as an electrician is. There may be a number of ways to do it without distroying your home. Some ovens require a neutral for electronic times, clocks etc. If all the elements and oven are less than 80% 5760W then you'll be fine. Is that the power cord? From a safety issue, it probably isn't one, but if it trips, it could ruin your supper! I saw an article about wiring a double oven and it said something about if there was no neutral block in the panel to connect it to the ground. The length of the run has a lot to do with the required gauge wire.
The installation manual will tell you what wire size to use and what size breaker to connect it to. If you already have a circuit that complies just use it. You will be putting continued heat stress on the wiring insulation, that will start to break down over time. The Grounded Wire is attached to the metal frame of the electric oven internally and is usually located inside the oven junction box enclosure. What can I do to fix this? That wiring had two black leads going to the breakers and a white lead going to the neutral buss bar in the sub panel. Thinking about it is driving me nuts. Will parts of the stove just not work??? Some ovens require a separate insulated neutral wires and a ground.
The wiring should be rated to handle more than 30amps. Oh, you can lose the lecturing tone of your posts. The provision for locking or adding a lock to the disconnecting means shall be installed on or at the switch or circuit breaker used as the disconnecting means and shall remain in place with or without the lock installed. Generally high amperage cooking equipment uses 240 volts for the oven heating elements as twice the power can be delivered 2 hot wires at half the amps that would be required if only 120 volts one hot wire supplied the oven. Bite the bullet and rewire the thing for the size range you'll be connecting to. If I can ask just two more follow up questions.
Not like Jimmy, but pretty close. By Summary: Kitchen Electric Wall Oven Installation with a typical 240 Volt electric circuit with 3-wire and 4-wire configurations. All ovens are not the same, such as double ovens, self cleaning ovens, and ovens located in other countries where the voltage is a factor as well. It has a mostly constant resistance per foot. Fortunately most electric ovens can be wired to work with either a 3-wire or 4-wire circuit. Do you have a basement? I run into this all the time as an electrician. You make a good point that Ikea have worded it so it sounds more friendly than it actually is! While the manufacturer and electrical code does require this, most of your basic ranges will run with out a problem on the 30amp circuit and 10 gage wire.
If the cooktop is installed in such a way that the receptacle is not accessible, you'll have to provide a disconnecting means in accordance with 422. Wiring a 240Volt Oven Circuit Electrical Question: What type of circuit does an electric oven need? Converting a newer 240 volt 4-wire circuit to an older electric oven with 3-wires. Now if we put number 8 to the breaker then connect in a junction box to the number 10 so not ripping everything out. Theoretically, you should be ok but things fail. Typically the newer oven will allow the ground and neutral to be bonded together and connected to the ground wire of the 240 volt circuit. That's not a good choice, putting a 40A load on a 30A circuit. You can probably figure a route for surface-mount electrical conduit or the higher-priced Wiremold and run the new wire along baseboards, walls, etc.
Just use the 30 amp breaker and you will be fine, unless you are paranoid or something. Glen asks: I have a 220 volt circuit coming in to my oven, can I use that line to provide power for a water heater? Is their a feed to each oven or is it done from a single feeder to a junction box and tapped to each stove. It could take hours of slightly over current conditions to heat up the breaker enough to trip but the wire can be cooking. The whip on the appliance is very short compared to your wire run and they use an insulation that resists a higher temperature to accomplish this. In fact just run it on the 40 amp breaker and 10 wire because you my friend deserve to have your house burn down if you even attempt to wire this oven on your own. Funds are kind of tight right now and since I don't believe this to be an immediate safety issue as long as i don't swap the breaker without swapping the wire I think that will be okay.
What does the nameplate list as the voltage required? So why isn't the existing 30 amp circuit good enough for the new oven, if the wall oven runs on 30 amps? Therefore, it is best to obtain the electrical circuit information and specifications which are are found on the equipment nameplate attached to the oven, or in the installation manual or instruction which is supplied with the new oven. Burners burn out and when they do they can create dead shorts, causing uncontrolled amperage to run wild. Hey, I just read this thread because I'm in the same boat. I don't see how the neutral and ground are connected, if I'm understanding your earlier comment. It is very important to use the correct gauge wire. Well Labman, Maybe I am wrong and you are correct.
The oven wire coming to the junction box is 12 ga. And to the guy who said it is more complicated being an electrician than a physician. I would prefer if all sparks registered their work and all customers kept the docs. The proper wire size corresponds to amperage, and using the proper gauge means that the wires will not overheat. Fixture wires are conductors used for wiring fixtures and control circuits, they are not branch circuit conductors. What there is no point in, is your continuing attempts to prove I am wrong. Diversity helps in this case not for showers etc Most circuits are standard as you say.